Holy Trails and Sneaky Cats: Hiking to the Cave Monastery of the Cross in Wadi Qannoubine

Qannoubine group

Date: Saturday, December 20, 2025

Destination: Hadchit Valley: Monastery of the Cross (Deir El Salib), Wadi Qannoubine (Holy Valley)

12 Km hike, 5.5 hours, difficulty: moderate (5/10)

Organized by: Hiking Forever Lebanon, M. Miled Mattar

What better way to spend a brisk December Saturday than hiking into Lebanon’s deep history and spectacular scenery? Our adventure with Hiking Forever Lebanon took us just over 100Km north of Beirut, deep into the heart of the Wadi Qannoubine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Holy Valley.

An early start

The day began long before sunrise, leaving home at 6 am and a 6:45 departure from Beirut. It was a little chilly (around 10 degrees), but our Pullman bus, carrying a group of 10 eager hikers, quickly got us on the road. After a brief roadside breakfast stop, we reached the starting point in the Hadchit area, ready to hit the trail.

We were greeted by M. Charbel Jreij, our local guide with an incredible 25 years of experience navigating these paths. He insists that even after all this time, he always finds something new to see.

Our rewards for descending into the Wadi Qannoubine valley, were discovering hermits’ caves and the majestic Monastery of the Cross.

A stolen sandwich

The monastery was the perfect location to unpack our lunches, but the meal quickly turned into a lively affair!

We were surrounded by a family of six cats—a mother and her kittens—who quickly became our dining companions. Despite sharing small bites, the highlight (or lowlight, depending on whose bag it was!) came when one sneaky kitten, deciding small bites weren’t enough, skillfully snagged a fully wrapped sandwich and made a swift escape!

Deeper into the valley

The hike became slightly more strenuous after lunch. The path involved continuous, often steep descents and countless twists and turns along the valley side, forcing us to stay focused:

Focus on Footing: Concentration was key. The trail was littered with loose stones and mini-boulders, demanding constant attention to prevent a slip or, worse, sending a rock tumbling down a hairpin bend towards a fellow hiker. The group humorously coined the mantra: “If one of us falls, we will all fall like dominoes!”

The Valley’s Depths: At the very bottom of one shaded section, we spotted cracked frost in a puddle. A stark reminder that while the sun was warm above, the deep valley floor, deprived of sunlight, plunges to freezing temperatures overnight.

A Perfect End to the journey

After five and a half hours of walking, our journey ended as we reached the final pickup point, greeted by our patient bus driver. The ride back to Beirut was a bit longer—over two hours due to end-of-week traffic and the pre-Christmas shopping rush.

This hike was perfectly organized and executed. It provided a great opportunity to get a workout, enjoy the stunning scenery and sun, capture incredible photos, and, connect with a friendly group of fellow hikers.

A massive thank you to our hosts, Hiking Forever Lebanon, and M. Miled Mattar! Read more about this hike on Facebook

We’re already looking forward to lacing up our boots for the next one!

This “Welcome to Lebanon” experiences was clearly in the first category: “a true reflection of a kind sentiment from Lebanese locals when meeting a greeting a non Lebanese visitor, to truly extend a warm greeting / welcome”

 

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